FUNDAMENTALS OF KNITTING MACHINES- BHARAT MACHINERY WORKS
What is knitting?
Out of total
fabric production occurring in India, knitting forms more than 30% of the
share. We define knitting as the process of making a piece of fabric by intermeshing
the loops of yarn. The knitted fabrics that we make can be either in tubular or
flat form. We can use the knitted fabrics for making apparels as well as other
products such as sweaters, hosiery, underwear, stockings and socks.
Types of Knitting Machines:
We usually
classify the knitting machines into two kinds, i.e. warp knitting machines and
weft knitting machines. Warp knitting machines form loops in the vertical
direction whereas weft knitting machines form loops in the horizontal direction.
As compared to warp knitting, weft knitting is more open, more resilient and
has more design possibilities. The type of stitch that we use in weft knitting
affects both the properties as well as the appearance of the knitted fabric.
Warp knitting offers more cover, less resilience, lighter weight and higher
productivity.
Depending on the
form of needle bed, type of fabric and type of needle used during the process
of knitting, weft knitting machines can be further divided into two categories,
i.e. circular knitting machines and flat knitting machines. In the circular
knitting machines, we set the needles either parallel or radically in one or
more circular beds whereas in flat knitting machines we use straight needle
beds having independently operated needles usually of the latch type.
Circular And Flat Knitting Machines:
Circular
knitting machines provide fast production speeds than that of flat knitting
machines. Therefore, circular weft knitting machines offer more productivity as
compared to the flat knitting machines. Most of the circular knitting machines
contain the needles which are present in the grooves cut of the wall of a
cylinder. The cylinder containing the needles usually has the diameter ranging
from 1 cm i.e.0.4 inches to 1.5 metres, i.e. 5 feet. In some of the circular
knitting machines, there are two sets of needles, present in the concentric
cylinders so that they can provide the interlock function. During the process
of the knitting, the butts of the needles move through the cam tracks. The
needles slide up and down for picking up the yarn, forming a new loop, and
casting off the previously formed loops. In the least complicated circular
knitting machines, there is only one feeder to supply the yarn, and each needle
picks up the yarn once during every revolution of the cylinder.
Whereas in the
modern circular knitting machines there can be 100 feeders for supplying the
yarn, and each needle has to pick up 100 threads per revolution. In circular
knitting machines, we can use both latch as well as spring needles. Out of the
two needles we most commonly use latch needles for circular knitting machines.
We use modern circular knitting machines of plain or jersey type with 90–100
feeders in them to produce medium-weight fabric. Small bladelike units called
as sinkers are present between every two needles to engage and hold the
completed fabric. Sinkers prevent the fabric from riding up with the needles as
they lift to form new stitches. We can also fix pattern wheels in the circular
knitting machines to control the action of the needle to produce tuck and float
stitches. Also, prefer to attach the Jacquard mechanism in the circular
knitting machines for getting the better performance. Stop motions are also an
essential feature necessary to stop the machine when a thread breaks. Yarn
tension affects the uniformity of the fabric; therefore, it is vital to provide
the circular knitting machine with the various tension controllers. By using
positive feed method, we can feed precisely measured amounts of the yarn into
the machine.
Circular rib
knitting machines consist of a vertical cylinder. The vertical cylinder
contains the slots of needles on the outer side and a horizontal bed in the
form of a circular plate containing the needle slots that cut radially.
Therefore, in circular rib knitting machines, there are two sets of needles
arranged at right angles to each other. Circular
knitting machines can produce seamless hosiery, knitted in the tubular form.
Modern knitting machines like the Komet knitting machine uses the double-hooked
needles present directly opposite to each other in the same plane to knit the
leg and foot portions, the heel and the toe.
Circular
knitting machines can knit underwear fabrics except to that of the fully
fashioned underwear, leotards and tights which we knit by using cut, make, and
trim operation. The best way of finishing the hosiery is by washing, drying,
and a boarding process. During the finishing process, we place the hosiery over
a thin metal or wooden form of appropriate shape and then press them between
the two heated surfaces. While dealing with the nylon fibre, we make use of the
pre-boarding process, in which we set the loops and the fabric in the pattern
of appropriate shape before dyeing and finishing them. We then place the
pattern of suitable shape containing the fabric in an autoclave or pass it
through a high-temperature setting unit. When we treat the fabric by the
pre-boarding process, then the fabric does not distort during dyeing.
We can also use circular
knitting machines for making simulated furs. We intermesh the plain-stitch
base fabric with the plush loops and then cut the loops to produce a pile. A
more common method of forming the pile is by using a carded sliver. For
creating the pile by using the technique of carded silver we take a
plain-stitch fabric as the base and then intermesh it with the loose fibres
from the silver. To determine the depth of the Pile, we measure the length of
the fibres in the sliver.
The delicate
knitting machines like Jacquard circular knitting machine incorporates in them
electronic sinkers for giving better performance.
Flat knitting
machines consist of a flat plate or needle bed or two beds at right angles to
each other and each bed at a 45° angle to the horizontal. In flat knitting
machines, the placement of the needle is on the flat plate or the needle bed.
The upper edges of the plates which we call as throat allow the knitted fabric
to pass downward through space between them. During the process of knitting,
the cams attached to a carriage by a yarn guide pushes the needles up and down
which then moves over the entire length of the machine. By using flat knitting
machines, we can also alter the width of the fabric by increasing or decreasing
the number of active needles. Flat knitting machines allow the production of
shaped fabrics, which when we sew together produce fully fashioned garments.
Though the flat bed knitting machines are suitable for hand operation when we
have to use them for commercial purposes, then it’s always better to operate
them by using power. By using flat knitting machines, we can get an unlimited
variety as we have the freedom of selecting the colour and type of stitch. We
always prefer to attach the automatic narrowing and widening devices in the
cotton frame knitting machine so that we can knit fine, properly shaped fully
fashioned goods like hosiery and sweaters. In flat knitting machines, we can
change the machine cams after every course or even after every stitch; thus
these machines offer more versatility in loop structure combinations as well as
in patterning. By using flat knitting machines, we can easily knit one or both
the beds. However, you should know that if you use electronic circular
machines, then these provide us with the same capability as that of flat knitting
machines.
We can further
divide the flat knitting machines into four classes:
(i) V-bed flat knitting machines having two
inverted V-formed needle beds
(ii) Purl machines having double ended needles
(iii) Flat knitting machines that possess a single
bed of needles- It includes most of the domestic models, and a few hand
manipulated intarsia machines.
(iv) Cotton patent machines--- these are
single-bed machines having bearded needles arranged vertically. Bearded needles
have an extended terminal hook or beard which can be bend to close the hook.
Parts Of Knitting Machines:
1. CAMS- cams
are the devices that convert the rotary machine drive into suitable
reciprocating action for the needles. The loops can be formed sequentially by
the up and down motion of the needle butts moving through the cam system.
2. The needle
which we mostly use in weft knitting is the latch needle. It consists of a
latch, a needle hook, and a needle stem. The main benefit of the latch needle
is that it controls the loop. The individual movement and control of the needle
allow the complete formation of the loops.
3. Another essential element in the knitting
machine is the sinker. Sinkers perform the functions like loop formation,
holding down, and knocking-over. However, in V-bed flat knitting machines with
latch needles, the primary role of sinkers is to perform the holding-down
function. Holding down sinkers provides us with tighter fabric structures
having an improved appearance.
4. Knitting
machines also consist of brushes. The primary purpose of the brushes is to
open the latches at the beginning of the procedure when the machine starts to
knit and to avoid the closing of the latches.
5. The carriage
pulls the yarn carrier or yarn feeder along the needle bed. It introduces and
feeds the yarn required for knitting. The place of yarn carrier is usually over
a dove-tail profiled rail.
6. Take down
rollers helps in preventing the previous loop, which is present in the hook
enclosure, from riding up with the needle ascension. It is a very crucial step
in the process of loop formation because without the operation of the take down
rollers the previous loop will not slide under the latches and new loops will
not get formed.
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